The rest of the day was mostly the ride home, a quick dinner and an early bed time. Our hotel was right on the water and, with the giant sliding glass door open, the sound of the sea crashing against the rocks below was almost deafening. We initially left the door open to let the swells put us to sleep but Brooke got up at some point that night to close the door since the crashing waves kept waking her up. That’s how loud they were. Me, I’ll sleep through anything…
The beach was very small but there were probably twenty kids and adults in the water with body boards or funny hand-fins for body surfing. The waves were rarely above 4 feet but they were strong and there was a sand bar a little way out that caused them to curl and break nicely. After catching some sun, we decided to wade out a bit. The water was perfect and it was fun to hop up over the waves and generally get tossed about by the sea. Then I got stupid.
I decided to kick the tires on a little body surfing without any gear. Not really a big deal, just hard without fins to help you get in front of the wave before it starts to break. It also means you have to wait for a relatively big wave so you can get a good head start. Such a wave, I did find.
At first, I thought I was about to miss the break like all the others before but at the last second, I caught it (or it caught me, rather). I was propelled forward for, say, half a second and then got tumbled in the shallows. Caught off guard and under water, I immediately struggled to pop up for air. In doing so, I some how popped my right arm out of the socket at the shoulder. I could feel that it was out of socket as I stood up and, without even thinking, I just grabbed it with my left hand and shrugged it back into place. I’m unstoppable!


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